There are occasional hills on the route but nothing of any major substance, the highest point of the day coming in just over twenty metres. From Bankend you can take a short route east to Glencaple via Kirkblane Farm. We opted for the slightly longer, more coastal route dropping back down to the coast from Bankend, passing Caerlaverock Castle on the way (which we had hoped to visit) and from there to follow the road above the saltmarsh and in to Glencaple from the south-east.
As we were setting off, there was lovely early morning light, highlighting the silver and blue of sea and sky. There is a lovely sweep of bay to the front of the village that offers panoramic views east to west. The bay reaches round to the east to Barnkirk Point below Newbie and, beyond that to the Northern Pennines. To the west, the view is across Powfoot Scar to the expanse of Priestside Bank. Beyond Priestside Bank you can see north and south, making out Southerness Point and slightly north of that the hill of Criffel, part of the Southern Uplands, located just below the village of New Abbey. Across the river to the back of the Anthorn Masts, the peaks of the Cumbrian Mountain Range can be seen.
The views across Powfoot Scar and down the Solway Firth were delightful. Sadly, it was a short sojourn and too soon we were turning up at Moss-side to start the long road walk to our destination. Down here by the shore, at the bottom of a minor road, it was quiet enough and there were no issues at all with traffic. The roads were long, straight and clear and generally there was wide verge so that if two cars came at the same time from opposite directions we could step up on to the verge. However, when you can see the miles in front of you so clearly, it is easy to become disheartened and you need to look for and find interest in the surrounding countryside.
Shortly after coming on to a busier road after Moss-side, we passed the Priestside Flow forest where there was tree-felling ongoing but not visible, the sound of the chain saws and falling trees cutting the morning air. There was a nice wee glade at the edge of the forest that tempted us to stop and brew up. However, even before we could unpack the Jetboil we were swamped by midges and beat a hasty retreat. This was our first encounter with midges since crossing the border and they were, we were sure, a sign of what to expect walking the west coast of Scotland. We are always surprised walking on these quiet roads at the variety of wildlife you can find in the middle of or crossing the road. Here it was caterpillars and butterflies basking in the sun.
From Ruthwell to Bankend it was a long haul of quiet determination. At such times you have to remind yourself that the objective is not just to walk the pretty bits of the coast, but rather to experience all that it has to offer. This sometimes calls for quiet perseverance.
Walking the coast this is also germane when you are on long sections that can appear to be taking you in the 'wrong direction', for example, when you have to walk up and down rivers east and west when you want to be walking south; or down one side of a thin peninsula only to go up the other side and be able to see where you have just walked. Sometimes the psychology of the walk is more important than the terrain or the weather and requires the same careful monitoring.
Continuing downhill from the castle we started to have misty glimpses of the banks of the River Nith and beyond it to the hill of Criffel on the opposite bank.
Our journey finished at the Nith Hotel in Glencaple, which sits on the banks of the river and where we enjoyed a late Sunday roast dinner and the panoramic views of the river from the upstairs dining room.