Our estimate for the walk was sixteen miles but we suspected it might be longer. As yesterday, the profile for the walk is very flat with nothing of any consequence for the whole route, probably a consequence of walking in a river valley.
The weather forecast is very poor, with thunderstorms and strong winds expected. As we set off it was already blowy and raining, so waterproofs were the most likely garb for the day. Our route into Cardiff takes us to Atlantic Wharf where will catch the bus to go to the airport for an 8.00pm flight. With the timescale so neat, we cannot afford to dilly-dally too long on the walk. There is a good chance we will be wet and bedraggled and needing to change at the airport before we fly.
We were close enough to the river that we had good views up and down the water, albeit we struggled to see the opposite bank at times as a consequence of drifting mist. Occasionally when the rain stopped it was very occasional) and what little sun there was warmed up the grassess, there was that lovely hot, dank smell that you get in wet hay fields. The soundscape was dominated by the whip of the wind over the top of the river, the break of the tumultous waves and the occasional cry of the Peewit. By the end of the day we were near driven mad by the incessant thump of the wind in our ears.
Shortly after passing the lighthouse the weather deteriorated further witth the rain becoming very heavy and the wind increasing in intensity such that it was hard to make forward progress. We were delighted to find a lttle cafe where a public house is marked on the OS Map just before Walnut Tree Farm. The Shipwreck Cafe is a delightful little hostlery that offers good food at very reasonable prices. The omelette whipped up by the cook was as light as a the beat of a butterfly's wing. We spent far too much time in here eating and chatting to the cook but as long as the rain drummed down there was no inclination to cross the threshhold and brave the elements.
Moving on from the sluice the rain eased up again, although the wind continued to push in from the sea, the whup of it reverberating and echoing in the inner ear and icy splash continued to chill the face. Almost directly opposite the sluice on the far shore we could see the headland of Brean Down and the islands of Flat Holm and Steep Holm. Above the sea on the horizon, a thin shallow line of very sky blue appeared, a small chink of light in anotherwise grey sky. For a short while we were able to remove the waterproof jackets and just walk in shirts. Beside a memorial stone to a local waterfowler, we stopped for a snack, delayed by the persistent rains.
Despite what had been atrocious weather conditions we still felt a great sense of achievement at having finally started on the Wales Coast Path. We will be back in a week or two when we hope to at least complete the walk to and round the Gower Peninsula.