The white octagonal tower of the twenty-six metre high lighthouse was built in 1859. It was originally manned by a team of three men, with two required to be on station at all times. The normal rota was two months on and and one month off. Following changes in 1934, the keepers were withdrawn and the light function was automated. The light system was modernised again in 1995 with the installation of a solar powered lamp and finally in 2012 the light was moved to a ore modern steel structure on one of the other rocks. All functions are now monitored and controlled from Trinity House in Harwich, Essex.
With just the right level of wildness to the sea, the breakers were cracking white over the rocks, while the hill on the far side of the gully was awash with white from the wild garlic, which also heavily perfumed the air. On exiting from the gully on the slightly higher levels Sea Pink was both running down to the cliff edge and reaching upwards to the sky as it raced up the hill. At the bottom of the gully on the shore of Porth-cadjack Cove huge, round rock features studded the shore, just in front and to the west of Samphire Island. With the tide out there was a small area of dark sand and shingle at the top of the beach and a rockier foreshore but I understand it all disappears at high tide.
For much of the walk here you are walking along the fence of what was RAF Portreath, which is completely ringed by modern fencing. As you walk along the miles of it you cannot but wonder what the cost must have been? You can see the fence running up and over the hill on the photograph to the left.
Over the years, the airfield has had various uses including as an RAF Fighter Command Station and a refuelling stop for the American Airforce. Most controversially, it was used to experiment with the production of chemical weapons in the 1950's, with quantities of Sarin Gas being produced and stored there. Production of chemicals is thought to have been stopped in 1956, but it was not until 1976 that the base was decontaminated and handed back to the RAF for whom tt still functions as a remote radio station. The base is closed to the public but interestingly, as you walk round the perimeter of the base, as we did, you can see that there is farming activity on the base, with crops of some kind being grown commercially. I don't know about you, but it widnae be me!
From Gooden Heane Point there are two steep climbs and one steep descent to be managed. The first climb, which takes you to just above Sheep Rock, has a fair number of wooden steps to assist, but oft times, because of the inconsistent nature of the depth of the steps, you are better to take the earth path at the side. Personally, I persevere using my poles to negotiate the steps until I am too tired to lift the legs, then I use the path. From the top there is a drop down to just above Gullyn Rock and Sally's Bottom beach from where you have a good view of the next steep climb up the hill across the cove. On top of that hill you can see the outline of what I think is the Wheal Tye mine chimney. As you come closer to it, on the seaward side, the huge, long flue for the chimney runs down the hill.
The pitches were just across the road and down a short hill and were nice and flat and dry. We picked a spot close to the trees where we would have protection from the wind and once we were set up, set off to use the showers. The shower buildings were like little wooden chalets and, while it was slightly disconcerting to notice the gaps in the wood panelling, the fact that we had the place pretty much to ourselves meant it was not a problem. A nice wee touch was the solar fairy lights that were wrapped around the toilets.
After showering, we returned to the tent and made tea and then were happy to sit back and listen to the songbirds in the trees and hedges sing us a nightime lullaby.