Lying in bed in the early hours of the morning before a walk, listening to the tattoo beat of the rain drumming on the roof of the house does not engender enthusiasm for outdoor activities. The temptation is to pull up the duvet and rollover for another wee nap. Had we done so we would have missed out on some really nice, slightly challenging coastal walking, full of social and geological history.
As in the previous walk, transport arrangements for today were slightly complex. After an early start (06.00) Joanna dropped me off at ‘The Clock’ at Guardbridge for my five-mile walk in to St Andrews while Joanna drove off to park the car in distant Crail and then take the number 95 bus back to St Andrews to meet up with me at the golf museum.
As you approach the bridges from the St Andrew's side of the village the remains of the rail bridge (1852) is on the right; the Gair Bridge (15th century) is in the middle with the newer road bridge (1939) on the left. The rail bridge was victim to the 1960’s Beeching cuts and was subsequently dismantled. The Gair Bridge, by far the most interesting of the three was built in the mid- 15th century under the direction of Archbishop James Beaton (1473- 1539) of St Andrews. Signage at the bridge notes that the crossing was an important stopping point for pilgrims on their way to St Andrew’s town. Much of the labour to build the bridge was said to have been provided free as the church offered what were called ‘indulgencies’ to workers, which were thought to limit the amount of time spent in purgatory. Whatever you do, don't let Iain Duncan Smith (Secretary of State for Work & Pensions) know about this or it will, in all liklihood, appear in the next Tory manifesto.
If you are interested in other images of the bridges, including one of the railway bridge in all its glory and, one of a Tornado aircraft from nearby Leuchars Airfield over the bridges, see here.
For me the ruins of St Mary's, visible at Kirkhill just before the castle, while not so dramatic as the castle or cathedral, are the more enigmatic and mysterious. The ruins are part of that dark period of medieval history relating to the formation of Scotland as a nation and known as well for their status as the major Culdee (Celi De) church in Scotland. There is an excitement in their history that shouts about the birth of a nation, of Picts, Celts, Viking and Danes and murder and mayhem. My favourite Scottish king, Constantine II retired to the monastery here after ruling for an amazing forty three years. This is the time of Columba and the Irish mission, of the death knell of the old religion and acceptance of the way of Rome.
If you are interested in the history of this time, Alfred P Smyth’s (1984) book ‘Warlords & Holy Men: Scotland AD80 -1000' has not been bettered in my opinion as a very detailed introduction to a complex and troubled time. Difficult reading at times but only because it is so packed with factual information.
Passing East Sands beach where we could see people surfing, we soon started to climb up the heights of the Kinkell Braes. The views from here back across the town to Tentsbridge and beyond to the Angus coastline were dramatic in the bright but hazy Scottish light. There is pleasant if muddy walking here on a clear path through interesting shrubbery. Much of the path from here and on later sections is on ‘stepping stone paths’ that are either a boon or a danger dependent on how slippy they are. The sections going downhill require some care when wet.
If the time frame of the history of the town makes you catch your breath, then that of the coastal area will rock your socks.