The bridge, the world's first major suspension bridge, was designed by Thomas Telford and was completed in 1826. Until recently it was still carrying traffic over the Straights. However, on October 21, 2022, the bridge was shut without prior notice. A statement from the Welsh Government said it was closed for essential maintenance work following safety recommendations from structural engineers. Initially, the bridge was shut completely in both directions, but it was soon reopened to foot passengers and dismounted cyclists. The Welsh Government stated the bridge will remain closed for 14 to 16 weeks, reopening in early 2023
The Wales Coast Path follows the line of the A5 at this point and I stuck to the road until the turn off down on to the Nant Porth Nature Reserve which is on the banks of the Menai Straights. The route comes off an unnamed road and on to a grassy path that takes you past a white house and on to shingle beach.
The Bangor Pier was first conceived of in 1885, but it was not until 1894 that work actually began to build the structure, the opening taking place in 1896. Initially the pier was a great success with hundreds of thousands of people using the various facilities up to 1914. Over time, the popularity of the pier waned and it went through a long troubled period, the pier closing in 1971. Bangor City Community Council took ownership in 1978 for 1 penny, subsequently restoring the pier at a cost of over £3 million. While there have been ongoing issues with the structure of the pier, it has continued to enjoy some success winning the Pier of the Year Award in 2022.
Back down on the shore the route passes by the small Porth Penrhyn (harbour), developed at the mouth of the River Cegin. In earlier years the harbour served the local slate quarry. I was still following the line of the Wales Coast Path at this point but had intended leaving the path to cut through to Abercegin via the bottom end of Penrhyn. Unfortunately my route through the park was closed and I had to take the long route round the park via the coast path. The route follows the line of the River Cegin, by-passing the old Cegin Viaduct on which heavy horse were used to pull twenty-five wagons of slate from the quarry to the harbour. This method was used until the steam railway came to the area in 1879. The original line, which opened in 1801, was the first narrow gauge slate railway in Wales.
The views inland to the hills and valleys of the Carneddau mountain range were superb. The mountain peaks were clothed in mist giving them an added layer of mystery and intrigue. The geology of this impressive mountain range is complicated, the land masses of the Lapteus Ocean having come together numerous times over a long time period, creating a mixed landform of volcanic and sedimentary rock. The area has been inhabited since Neolithic times and there are many ancient monuments scattered throughout the mountain range.
It was not all plain sailing locally, as the 1900 quarry strikes illuminate. The longest running industrial dispute in British history, it was held against a back-drop of poor wages and working conditions. The background to the development of the estate, castle and local services, serve well to illustrate the challenges of coming to terms with the colonial past of Great Britain.
The route soon gives way to a broad, grassy path that runs along a fence line separating the landward from the shore. It was full of summer wild flowers which brought a particular gladness to the day. The tide was high, the waters whispering gently against the pebbled beach. The sun had been out all day and, coming towards the end of the walk, my water was getting pretty low.
Llanfairfechan has been settled since at least the Neolithic and the area is known to have been a major producer of stone-age axes. The Wales Coast Path at this point diverts to go up over the hills at the back of Llanfairfechan, passing through many of the Neolithic and later ancient sites.
It was a nice campsite, the only disappointment was that I was on a bit of a slope and during the night kept slipping down the hill. The facilities were good and after about 9.00pm it was quiet enough. Mind you, after a hot shower and a meal, I was not long awake after 9.00pm and there could have been a party of for all I would have known.