This was an lovely day. Long and hard but with magnificent views and lots of interest. The views over land and sea were dramatic, with the many bays and coves having a Grecian feel to them with azure blue seas and Ionic-like islands floating in the quite stillness, bathed by a bright yellow sun. From St David's we walked parallel to the coast for about a mile on the road known as the Merry Vale to rejoin the coast path at Porth Clais. There were interesting lime kilns at the Porth, as well as a coffee kiosk which for once we managed to bypass. We did take advantage of the toilet facilities as they tend to be few and between on the path. From Porth Clais we returned to the cliff top to walk out to St David's Head, this ending our sojourn on the beautiful St Bride's Bay. As we progressed to the headland we were confused by our perspective on Ramsay Island, expecting it to be end on, but found it presented on of its long sides instead. It was also much larger than we expected and it took some time to walk the length of it and in to St Justinian Bay with its very impressive and newish Lifeboat Station. St Justinian 's was a lovely, warm and sunny wee bay that was very busy with other walkers from both directions. Rising back up to the cliff from the bay we crossed Point St John to Whitesands Bay with the high Carn Hen towering over it. Stopping at the bay for a nice lunch, we enjoyed ham and cheese sandwiches and an Italian themed antipasto plate. From Whitesands the path goes out to St David's Head, where we passed a herd of wild ponies. Leaving the formal path just after the ponies, we took a high line to pass by the burial chamber on the hilltop. It was now very hot and we struggled a bit in the heat. The walking was on narrow, at footpath and you needed to remind yourself to look up and appreciate the scenery. The path wove across moorland constantly changing direction and perspective. The three peaks of Carn Hen, Carnedd Llaethdy and Carn Treliwyd, lay in front of us, the length them stretching in to the distance. It seemed a long way to go past them and, it was. There were a number of taxing climbs and descents on this section as we sought to clear the mountains. There were very few people on this section and they were but distant figures. The solitude added to the wildness and magnificence of the land and seascape. Passing through a swathe of Bluebells the scent in the afternoon sun was almost overwhelming. Tripping on one of the half-buried stones on the path the sole of my right boot tried to part company with the rest of the boot. Emergency repairs will be required. Finally passing by the three peaks, we were looking out for a little island, Carreg-guylan-fach, which would be the first indication that we were approaching the turnoff for our campsite at Pwll-caerog. With changes in perspective as we wove in and out of the scallop coastline and, up and down the numerous gullies, the island seemed close and then far away. Finally we hit the last gully and the final climb out to continue on up the steep hill to Celtic Camping. From our new stand point, we had clear views along the coast as far as Strumble Point and lighthouse which we could see winking in the distance. A beautiful sunset unfolded as we sat in the last of the light. It had been a long, hard and in ways frustrating day but one moment of glorious beauty and it is soon forgotten. | |
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March 2024
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