The profile of today's walk breaks into two, with the first part completed at or near to sea level as far as Tofanau. There is a wee cut inland just before this hamlet to cross over the River Dysynni, moving on to road walking until Bwlch. There is a short section on track and minor road over the hill at Bwlch, before returning to a minor road on the other side of the village of Rhoslefain. Another short walk on a minor road follows, before a return to the hillside on paths and tracks for the final section to our destination at Llwyngwril.
I had a few miles of beach walking where the fresh breeze off the sea could be moderately described as bracing. There was a sense of excitement walking by the water's edge watching and listening to the crash of the big breakers. When you are up against the elements, sooner or later there is an element of surrender, a point at which you reach acceptance and beyond that just a wonderful sense of freedom.
As I walked the beach in front of me seemed endless, disappearing in to the grey horizon. It is possible to walk on the beach for the whole distance of nearly eight kilometres, tide permitting, to the town of Tywyn. However, due to the contours of the land, you do not see the full length of it, rather only a stretch at a time, with sand dunes breaking the line of sight. Along the way the beach was littered with fairly large jelly fish, left here no doubt by the storm conditions overnight. By Tywyn there was an ache in my calves from walking on the sand and I was pleased to move up on to the road for the approaches to the bridge over the River Dysynni.
Moving inland from Tywyn to Bwlch, starting at sea level, towards the end the land starts to gain height, ready for the third and final cross-country section of the day over the open hillside. Just before Bwlch I passed, given the rurality of the location, an intriguing sign for tea and cake. Following the signs, I took a short detour out to the farmhouse at Tyddyn Meurig where the farmer sold coffee and cake 'al fresco' to walkers and other travellers. Thus I found myself sitting in the rain, underneath a sun shade of all things, by a picnic table drinking coffee and eating scones and jam. The warm, crisp, short scones were a delight and the hot coffee warmed me up nicely. Many thanks to the farmer and his son who prepared it for me, in the absence of 'mother farmer', readying me to meet the foe on the upper moorland.