It could have been so different as the area had been identified as a possible location for a London estuary airport. Its future as a wilderness area is still under threat as in April 2017 the Government announced the area to the west as its preferred route for a new Lower Thames Crossing which will cross the Hoo Peninsula at Chalk, just to the south west of Cliff. With major developments creeping ever nearer one wonders how long before the wilderness landscape and all the numerous habitats that it holds are directly threatened.
Another protection relates to the protection accorded mudflats and saltflats, including a feature that means if an area of such habitat is removed for development purposes, a similar sized area must be developed within the local area to replace it. The area where I was walking is part of the Thames Estuary and Marshes Special Protection Area which is a designated RAMSAR site (a wetland site designated of international importance under the Ramsar Convention). As I walked the seawall I came to a section where there was a stunning number of wildflowers covering an area over a mile long, with the flowers covering the top of the seawall, tumbing down the banks and extending a fair distance in both directions, covering the banks of the river and the flat area behind the wall. I had noticed that there appeared to be an extra bay where the seawall had been breached and new mud and saltflats created. It really was the most beautiful sight I had seen on my walk so far. By the time I had walked the length of it my legs from toe to knee, boots and socks were yellow from the pollen of the flowers. It was so unusual as to be a wee bit of a mystery.
He explained that about a year before, an area around Canvey Island had been extended which had resulted in a section of mudflat being lost. To replace the habitat and provide a new home for the displaced wildlife, a commensurate area of mudflat was created on the opposite bank which entailed breaking the seawall and creating a new tidal zone. When the work was being done they had shipped in hundreds of tons of topsoil to create the new seawall and this had been filled with flower seeds. This was the wonderful vista that was laid out before us. He further noted the likelihood that we would be the only two people ever to see it as it would be short-lived and was unlikely to happen again on the same scale. The salt-laden air and the salt that would build up in the soil through immersion beneath endless tides, would eventually kill off most of the seed. It was a one-off natural occurrence. Over time, other more local, salt-tolerant species would inhabit the site but the profusion would never come close to what we could see. It felt very special then to see and walk through the flowers.
The marshes are all part of a Marine Protected Area, defined as 'a clearly defined geographical space, recognised, dedicated and managed, through legal or other effective means, to achieve the long-term conservation of nature with associated ecosystem services and cultural values'.
There are an amazing number of bird species in the marshes from the small ones llike wheatears to the the larger birds of prey. Looking over the area, it is initially dominated by the 'boroughdyke', the stretch of water created when the land behind the seawall was excavated to create it. Inland of that it is a patchwork of the clumpy areas of marsh, ditches and standing pools. It is surprisingly vibrant green in the early summer sunshine.
The walking was striaghtforward now on a good path on top of the seawall. Between long straight stretches I walked in, along and back out of the main Egypt and St Mary's Bays. In the distance I could see the buildings of Allhallows and knew it was time to start looking for a campsite for the night. It was still reasonably early, about 5.00pm, so I would need to sit for a while before pitching up.
I needn't have worried because the distance was slightly deceiving and it took me well over an hour to walk to the edges of the village. My plan was to camp on the flat plain to the landward side of the seawall. You would think it would be fairly straightforward. As you look at the ground, particularly in photographs, it always looks putting green flat. But when you get closer there are usually huge ruts where tractors and other wide-rimmed vehicles have driven. In the event, I was out the other side of the town before I found a section where I might be reasonably comfortable and I though, undisturbed. It was still a bit close to habitation and I had a wait of over an hour before the trail of dog owners had stopped bringing pooch for his daily walk. Dog dirt is often another obstacle to camping!
Just as the gloaming set in I pitched up, made dinner and had a last half hour on the seawall just watching the river. Just after I had settled down for the night there was another late-night visit from a dog walker whose hound was not happy at my tent being where it was. The dog owner shouted asking if there was anyone in the tent but I resisted the temptation to answer and she went away. Secure in the knowledge that I would be away before anyone returned the next morning, I drifted off to dreamland.