Terrain Map
Satellite Image
Lying in the lee of the low, red cliffs on the Esplanade, we had spent a cold night on the valley floor. The generally clear skies over the Grand Canyon results in rapid heat loss at night when the sun goes down, the day ending in surprisingly low temperatures after such scorching heat. We had fallen asleep watching the night stars and we wakened in the early morning light to see the Great Lizard that is the sun sneaking along the valley floor, gobbling up the shadows, seeking us out to take us in to his hot embrace.
The shade of the red cliffs enabled us to come too in relative comfort before we had to face the heat of the day. Even in the early morning the heat is intense. Sitting in the dark shade of an overhang, we enjoyed a breakfast of granola and biscuits with lashings of coffee. JC explained the walking plan for the day, highlighting the challenges that lay ahead and noting those areas where we might find it difficult.
Walking on very narrow paths on the steep, scree slopes was difficult enough, but as I found out yesterday a lack of flexibility in the hip and knee joints complicates movement when you are negotiating steep slopes or clambering over, up or down man-size rocks with a forty or fifty pound pack on your back. Close attention to what is around you is important too because if you make quick changes of direction and have not checked if anyone is within hitting distance, a dunt from a large pack is enough to send one of your walking companions off the narrow path and it’s a long way down.
Walking on very narrow paths on the steep, scree slopes was difficult enough, but as I found out yesterday a lack of flexibility in the hip and knee joints complicates movement when you are negotiating steep slopes or clambering over, up or down man-size rocks with a forty or fifty pound pack on your back. Close attention to what is around you is important too because if you make quick changes of direction and have not checked if anyone is within hitting distance, a dunt from a large pack is enough to send one of your walking companions off the narrow path and it’s a long way down.
Before leaving Flagstaff, we had checked the weather forecast for the six days of our trip and knew today and tomorrow were likely to be the hottest, with temperatures of over 100F. While our mileage was likely to be low; in the region of five miles, the conditions would be just as tough as yesterday. With another 1,000 metres elevation to lose (we descended about 2,000 metres yesterday) before we reach our destination (Deer Creek), the descent is steep, footing is unsure and it can be treacherous.
In general, the temperature rises approximately 5.5F for every 1,000M lost. The bottom of the canyon is where the highest temperatures are to be found. The highest recorded temperature in the canyon was at Phantom Ranch, which is on the north rim, where 120F has been recorded on a number of occasions and where we visited on our last trip. The record for the coldest temperature in the canyon was also recorded on the north rim in 1985 when it was -22F. The other weather danger we needed to be aware of was the possibility of monsoon-like rainstorms and the accompanying lightning, which kills a number of people in the canyon every year and can also result in forest fires.
After we filled up again with water from the potholes, we set off walking on a clear path between large patches of anaerobic soil or ‘cryptogamic crust’ as it is also known. Initially, we continued to be shaded by the cliff and the various rock formations, as well as by the relatively thin and wispy cloud cover. However, it didn’t take long for the cloud cover to burn off and as we walked the heat of the sun increased. The colour of the rocks, influenced by whether or not it was in or out of shade, was an exercise in contrast. The dark green of the desert plants against the flat red, red rock of the Esplanade was also an interesting feature. The cliffs in front of us offered an excellent view of the banded and layered nature of the canyon cliffs. Eash layer representing a different era in the earth's existence.
Hikiing in the back country here is hard on the equipment, as well as the mind and body. Walking down the steep, limestone scree slope yesterday had been tough on Joanna’s boots. iBefore we had made any decent headway today they required first aid to keep body and sole together (see what I did there?). For the remainder of the trip daily life saving intervention was required in the form of the application of copious amounts of surgical tape. By the end of the trip they succumbed to their injuries and were laid to rest.
Although we were walking in a desert-like environment, it was by no means a dull or boring vista. The startling colours and shapes of the rock, occasional tall juniper trees, different cacti and shrubs and the many brightly coloured summer flowers all added piquancy to the adventure. And everywhere you looked there was a rock formation to marvel out; to wonder at the forces of nature that created it; to admire the planes, curves, lines and shelves carved out by the weather conditions, to ponder on the timescales in which these marvels were sculpted.
While the walking conditions were difficult, I would not want you to think it was so difficult that we could not admire and enjoy this wonderful wilderness. At its’ very hardest I was sometimes moved to question my sanity for being there; but for the majority of the time I revelled in the wonders of the canyon, was moved by the spirituality of the place and felt grateful that I had been able to experience it first hand. If the aim was to step out of the comfort zone we had certainly achieved that.
While the walking conditions were difficult, I would not want you to think it was so difficult that we could not admire and enjoy this wonderful wilderness. At its’ very hardest I was sometimes moved to question my sanity for being there; but for the majority of the time I revelled in the wonders of the canyon, was moved by the spirituality of the place and felt grateful that I had been able to experience it first hand. If the aim was to step out of the comfort zone we had certainly achieved that.
Plants on Esplanade
The early part of our walking was not too difficult as we walked across the flat expanse of the Esplanade. We were looking for a break in the cliff wall that would enable us to drop down on to the route to the valley below and after crossing that, drop down again to follow the line of Deer Creek in the direction of the Colorado River.
In the distance the towering cliffs of the South Rim filled the horizon. Still a distance from the edge of the Esplanade, we could now see the empty space that was the top of the Grand Canyon, but could not yet see in to the canyon itself. Seeing the South Rim, we recollected our three-day backpacking trip of last year down the Bright Angel Trail and out to Phantom Ranch, remembering how hard we thought that was. Little did we know!
In the distance the towering cliffs of the South Rim filled the horizon. Still a distance from the edge of the Esplanade, we could now see the empty space that was the top of the Grand Canyon, but could not yet see in to the canyon itself. Seeing the South Rim, we recollected our three-day backpacking trip of last year down the Bright Angel Trail and out to Phantom Ranch, remembering how hard we thought that was. Little did we know!
Esplanade & Surprise Valley
As we neared the edge of the Esplanade the walking started to become a little more difficult as we encountered small ups and downs and needed to navigate round rocks and scree. Suddenly! Almost unexpectedly, we stand on the edge and below us we can see across Surprise Valley. In the far distance, we can just make out a tiny corner of the Colorado River. We take time to enjoy the panorama and to prepare ourselves for the journey down. To our right we can just make out a little of the path as it zigzags down the side of the cliff. It would be fair to say we felt a degree of trepidation.
Views Across Grand Canyon
By now we had been walking for over an hour and the heat had picked up substantially. Any shade we had enjoyed was far behind us and, on the side of the cliff we were exposed to the full glare of the mid-morning sun. It was a hard section, with some challenging climbing and scrambling over rocks and a the boulder-strewn trail.
In the summer months at home in Scotland I barely go out on a hot summer’s day. As we walked in the searing heat I wondered what on earth was I thinking about coming here, believing that I could deal with this heat. As noon approached it got hotter and hotter. In JC's estimation it was now over100F.
Walk a bit. Stop and drink water. Walk a bit. Pause and try to lean in to the narrow shade of the upright rock. Question your sanity again! Curse JC, curse Joanna, curse both for being younger and fitter. Walk a bit. Pause. Pause. Curse yourself for not being fitter. Drink a bit. Pause. Keep going, knowing there is no option but to move forward. Ask JC to tell me again about the creek and the shady nook where we are going to camp. He tells me about the very difficult bit that is coming up and after which we will stop for a rest. Vicariously think about lying in the shade by the side of the creek, eyes alert for movement, ears attuned to the flight of a bird or the scurry of a small mammal in the undergrowth. Gently falling asleep to the hum of the insects and the murmurings of the burn. WAKEN UP ya mug, yair no done yet! Walk. Pause. Drink.
In the summer months at home in Scotland I barely go out on a hot summer’s day. As we walked in the searing heat I wondered what on earth was I thinking about coming here, believing that I could deal with this heat. As noon approached it got hotter and hotter. In JC's estimation it was now over100F.
Walk a bit. Stop and drink water. Walk a bit. Pause and try to lean in to the narrow shade of the upright rock. Question your sanity again! Curse JC, curse Joanna, curse both for being younger and fitter. Walk a bit. Pause. Pause. Curse yourself for not being fitter. Drink a bit. Pause. Keep going, knowing there is no option but to move forward. Ask JC to tell me again about the creek and the shady nook where we are going to camp. He tells me about the very difficult bit that is coming up and after which we will stop for a rest. Vicariously think about lying in the shade by the side of the creek, eyes alert for movement, ears attuned to the flight of a bird or the scurry of a small mammal in the undergrowth. Gently falling asleep to the hum of the insects and the murmurings of the burn. WAKEN UP ya mug, yair no done yet! Walk. Pause. Drink.
After tricky bit of steep slope that constantly jarred my knees and hips, on a corner; beside a cathedral of rocks, I realise I will need to stop before tackling 'the difficult bit'. I tell JC I am stopping in the shady nook for a longer rest. He is concerned we make more progress to our destination as he has plans for other activities. I am adamant I need to stop. From other adventures I have undertaken I know I have good recovery skills and in no time will be ready for the off again. But right now, it is time to stop! To be honest, I'm scared if I continue as I feel, I will fall down the diifficult bit but I am too embarrassed to tell them.
Feeling a wee bit like a recalcitrant schoolboy I go in and sit in the shade, take off my pack, lean back and shut my eyes. Jo and JC reluctantly trudge back and stand silently watching me. From the look on their faces my death is imminent. JC takes my pulse and silently hands me an electrolyte gel to assist with energy replacement and to ward off dehydration. After about twenty silent minutes, broken only by my panting trying to exude inner heat, I have recovered enough to continue and finish the day’s walking.
Shortly after going back on the trail again we are passed by two women coming uphill. They had spent the best part of the morning lost after taking a wrong turning at the head of Deer Creek and going up the wrong canyon. Looking slightly distressed and dishevelled, they advised us they still intended to try and get out of the canyon in one go despite the lost hours. We offered them some water and snacks that they declined, noting they had cached some water at the Esplanade on the way down and they had plenty of food. Meeting them reinforced for me and Joanna the wisdom of having a guide with us for this trip.
The last part of the day continued on the zigzag path but, crucially, we had lots of little rests as JC stopped to ponder where the path had gone or what was the best route over an unexpected rock fall. Whenever we stopped there were marvellous views and marvellous viewpoints, up and down the canyon, across to the opposite rim and, somewhat frighteningly, back up the way we had come.
The Vanishing Trail
After traversing the cliff for some time, we reached a very steep and difficult section, complicated by a recent rock fall. That meant the camera was put away until we reached the river at the bottom, which was essentially our campsite. None of us liked the look of it, but the only other option was to turn back.
Ever so slowly we inched our down the scree slope, sometimes on our feet and holding hands, at times on our bums, and all the while ever so carefully inching forward. One reason to be careful was that the rocks you sent rolling were likely to hit someone else just below you. It was with relief we reached the bottom and had not yet stopped talking about and reliving the descent before we were in our camp area.
Ever so slowly we inched our down the scree slope, sometimes on our feet and holding hands, at times on our bums, and all the while ever so carefully inching forward. One reason to be careful was that the rocks you sent rolling were likely to hit someone else just below you. It was with relief we reached the bottom and had not yet stopped talking about and reliving the descent before we were in our camp area.
Part of the reason for JC trying to push us on was that he had another little adventure in mind once we had set up camp that entailed following Deer Creek down to where it enters and then exits from a slot canyon as a rushing waterfall over the red cliffs, to cascade a couple of hundred feet in to a pool below before trickling in to the Colorado River. Having reached our camp for the night I had no intention of going anywhere other than on my back. As Jo was still keen for further adventure (a folly of youth I have long left behind me) and I knew we would follow the route down the creek tomorrow, I suggested they go off and leave me to set up camp.
After they leave I have a wee look around the campsite. It consists of three or four cleared flat areas where it is possible to put up a couple of tents. A short distance back up the trail, in the lee of the cliff and sitting on a raised mound is the only structure on the site, a ‘thunder box’ toilet. It only has walls on three sides and we quickly learn to hang up a towel or something to let other people know it is occupied. On either side of the creek the cliffs rise to infinity, with enormous slabs of fallen sandstone perched precariously on the slopes. A few feet from where I pitch the tent the cool, clear, creek water gently flows. In the shade of the juniper trees and sitting on the rocks by the water's edge is a paradise cold.
Just after leaving the campsite to walk down the creek, Joanna and JC met our first ‘River People’. These are the crew and passengers of the boats that go down the river. Wherever there are interesting features on the land they stop on the banks, hitch up the boats and take the short route to go inland to see the features. With their tiny designer rucksacks, usually very tanned looking and in flip-flops, bikinis or shorts, we quickly acquire the backpackers disdain of them as tourists, interested in the easy routes and the quick, clean 'tourist fix'. We treat them accordingly. Shame on us!
Joanna and JC walk off down the creek, heading for its junction with the Colorado River. As they approach a stand of slender trees they can see the opening in to a mysterious ‘slot canyon’, known as Deer Creek Narrows or Lower Deer Creek Canyon. The force of fierce water running through the rock has created the canyon over thousands of years by wearing down the sandstone.
Such canyons are generally not very wide but they can be a considerable length, albeit this one is not. One of the dangers encountered in slot canyons comes from the risk of flash flooding. This danger is compounded by the fact that the rain that can cause the flash flood can fall a number of miles away from your location and you can be completely unaware it has been raining at all until the water starts to rampage down the canyon. In the days before we started our trip we had read in the local newspaper that two people had died in such a flood elsewhere in the region.
Such canyons are generally not very wide but they can be a considerable length, albeit this one is not. One of the dangers encountered in slot canyons comes from the risk of flash flooding. This danger is compounded by the fact that the rain that can cause the flash flood can fall a number of miles away from your location and you can be completely unaware it has been raining at all until the water starts to rampage down the canyon. In the days before we started our trip we had read in the local newspaper that two people had died in such a flood elsewhere in the region.
While the Narrows is relatively short length wise, it is filled with stunning and beautiful views of rock formations and rock strata. There are numerous twists and turns in the short distance with smooth ripples and shelves on the rock face, as well as inviting and wonderful ellipses. The walls of the canyon tower over you and crowd in on you the deeper you walk in. Shadows touch shadows and places flirt and hold hands with the light.
Exiting the narrows on to the area known as the Patio, the views up and down the Colorado River are stupendous. River boats can be seen tied up on both banks of the Colorado. There is a final, slightly scary downward slide on a scree slope, and then a clamber over huge boulders to eventually stand at the bottom of the Deer Creek waterfall as it tumbles down the cliff, roaring on its way to the cool pool below. Joanna reports that even standing 15 – 20 feet away from the pool the spray still hits your face with the force of small hailstones. The water is cold, clear and invigorating and no self-respecting Scot could resist a wee paddle!
Until about 2012, the waterfall was a must do destination for climbers and abseilers but the park authorities have now closed it off for this type of activity.
Until about 2012, the waterfall was a must do destination for climbers and abseilers but the park authorities have now closed it off for this type of activity.
Deer Creek Waterfall
We are reunited for supper and sit around afterwards discussing the day’s events. Lying back in the gathering darkness of the gloaming, the sun disappearing over the tops of the cliffs , we enjoy the gathering night sounds of the canyon and the ripple of the creek in the darkness. The quiet of the night sharpens as the cry of a coyote streaks across the night sky.
Quietly, JC draws our attention to the scree slope on the other side of the river where, about a couple of hundred yards up from the creek is a Grand Canyon Bighorn Sheep buck. In the fading gloom it was too far away to get a photograph of it, despite our various attempts but with the naked eye we could just make out the huge horns on the top of his head. It stood staring us down for a few minutes before dismissing us with a disdainfull shake of its horns and disappearing effortlessly up and round the hill. It was a wonderful moment, almost spiritual in its intensity and one that we will treasure and remember.
Quietly, JC draws our attention to the scree slope on the other side of the river where, about a couple of hundred yards up from the creek is a Grand Canyon Bighorn Sheep buck. In the fading gloom it was too far away to get a photograph of it, despite our various attempts but with the naked eye we could just make out the huge horns on the top of his head. It stood staring us down for a few minutes before dismissing us with a disdainfull shake of its horns and disappearing effortlessly up and round the hill. It was a wonderful moment, almost spiritual in its intensity and one that we will treasure and remember.
To the sound of the sound of the creek tripping over grey stones, the flashes in the night sky of a million constallations; the song of the crickets and the rustlings of the creatures of the night, we bade farewell to another exciting and exceedingly tiring day. To sleep, to sleep, perchance to dream!
Deer Creek Narrows & Waterfall |