Weatherwise, it is set to be a mixed bag. As we set off the clouds were thick, but it was still warm so we stuck to t-shirts and shorts. However, we expect rain at some point, so the waterproofs are near the top of the bag.
Making our way up the hill, we took a path to the left on to the long, green sward that leads you back on to the high ground and on to Warren Cliff with its ruined tower. This area, as the name implies, is suggested in a local archaeological field survey to have been a commercial rabbit warren in the Medieval period and the 'tower' possibly the home of the Warrener, who oversaw the commercial activity. Further inland from Warren Cliff at Stoke is the Church of St Nectan, known as the 'Cathedral of North Devon'. St Nectan is one of numerous Celtic Saints who populated the South West of England and his holy well, which is thought to be the site of his hermitage, is close to the church.
There was a very fine grey mist that lent an aura of mystery to the views. To the front of us, the horizon was dominated by Gull Rock at Damehole Point and beyond Upright and Blagdon Cliffs. The descent down to Dame Hole is stepped and at the bottom there is nice little 'green' where you can sit and enjoy the closeness of the sea. Coming off Blegberry Cliff there is a choice of a high or a low path and we chose to take the lower one, to be closer to Gull Rock and the shore.
From just after Hartland Point the nature of the land changes quite dramatically. While the cliffs and the rock features remain to give rough texture to the scene, on the cliff top moving inland it starts to soften with swathes of arable land, as well as grasslands and heathland. The latter can be thick with undergrowth, nettles, thistles and brambles in abundance. On the clifftop, flowering shrubs grow tall, with the occasional break giving sight to otherwise hidden jewels
In places, our view was obscured by vegetation but when it cleared we could see right across Bideford Bay to distant Westward Ho and beyond. Before too long, we had our first views of the magnificent Blackchurch Rock. The weather brightened as we approached Mouth Mill, at least enough to let us enjoy the swathes of green grass, trees and shrubbery against the backdrop of Bideford Bay. At the end of Beckland Bay, you enter the National Trust's Bideford Bay and Hartland Reserve where the route turns slightly inland before dropping down the hill via a set of steps to Mouth Mill where, if the tide is right, you can become closely acquainted with Blackchurch Rock where we stopped to brew up. If you have five minutes to spare David Linnett's short video of a climb on the rock is worth watching.
In the midst of the woods we came across the Angel's Wings shelter. A Grade II listed structure, it was built in 1826 and renovated in the 1930's. Time and again we come across these lovely little locations for a stop just after we have had coffee somewhere else and had no excuse to stop for a decent length of time.
From the shelter it took us no time at all to reach the lower level of Clovelly and from there to complete the long climb up Wrinkleberry Lane to our accommodation in Higher Clovelly. The lane itself is an old, old sunken lane and walking up, hemmed in on either side by a dense stand of woods, it feels like being in another age. Where it exits on to the main village road, just by the school and village hall, it is to a lovely quaint row of traditional houses, with some lovely cottage country gardens.