The warm welcome from the locals, including children's author John Farman (The Very Bloody History of Britain (without the boring bits) and other books of that ilk), soon made us forget the showers and we had an entertaining night with them. John Farman regaled us with some stories from the publishing world and others told us stories about the local area and the characters in it. The food was also very good and the chef came out later to join us for a natter. As well as the locals, we enjoyed the company of two other campers (actress and theatre director), who were keen to hear about our adventures and to get some tips about planning long distance adventures, although it sounded as if they were no slouches themselves.
As yesterday, the hillsides were ablaze with banks of wild flowers and the air filled with the scent of the flowering, yellow broom. Blue bells, yellow broom, pale cream prinmrose, pretty little pink geums, perky Red Robin, marched up and down the hillsides, a real glory to behold. The colour of the sea moved from dark green to sky blue with regularity. This is wonderful, wild walking country. With no signs of human habitation there is a welcoming sense of isolation and, as you and your walking partner fall silent; as the 'oohs' and the 'aahs' at spying rock features that draw the eye as soon as you round a corner become superfluous, you gently wrap yourself in the silk cloak of solitude and just enjoy being here, in this moment. Speech becomes redundant and silence a welcome companion.
Later, as we walked along Portlemouth Down and just before turning the corner to start up the Kingsbridge Estuary, the views were lovely The hillside were ablaze with the contrasting colours of swathes of flowering blackthorn and yellow broom. Just before Mill Bay there was a lovely walk in the woods in which we found shade from the sun and a wonderful array of flowering wild garlic, the scent of which almost bowled you over. The vistas were even more stunning as we moved on to the estuary proper with wonderful views up the estuary and across Salcombe Harbour.