Route Map Early Morning, North Ledaig
North Ledaig to Benderloch What a lovely day! While there was fairly heavy cloud cover when we started out, it stayed dry and, but for a cold wind, it would have been the perfect day's walking. It was day where we let the hair down and just went exploring for exploring's sake. It made the end of the day a bit more difficult because we had to go back to Ardfern to pick up our wayward awning, but oh it was worth it.
The route was an out and back variety as we walked to and then down and back up the opposite coasts of the Benderloch Peninsula. It was an uncertain kind of day as we walked where there were no clear trails; a chatty kind of day as we stopped to speak to various folk; a soft flow kind of day as we took the foot of the accelerator and just meandered. Jumping rocks and bogs, avoiding the worst of the over-grown bracken, up and down gullies, in and out of marsh holes and thick, cloying mud. All in all, a wonderful day.
The route was an out and back variety as we walked to and then down and back up the opposite coasts of the Benderloch Peninsula. It was an uncertain kind of day as we walked where there were no clear trails; a chatty kind of day as we stopped to speak to various folk; a soft flow kind of day as we took the foot of the accelerator and just meandered. Jumping rocks and bogs, avoiding the worst of the over-grown bracken, up and down gullies, in and out of marsh holes and thick, cloying mud. All in all, a wonderful day.
Tralee back to North Ledaig The campervan was parked one row back from the shore, so a short walk to the beach to get started. It is so nice to start off from your own doorstep and not have a an early morning bus or train ride to the start line. Moving along the beach as far as we could go, we then cut up on to a cycle path at Ledaig, going to the right of the standing stone and the Iron Age fort remains. It was only a short diversion from the shoreline and we were quickly back on a sandy beach to walk to Tralee.
The two historical artifacts mentioned are part of a much wider Neolithic landscape that covers the Benderloch / Barcaldine area. The Neolithic remains includes standing stones, Iron Age duns or forts, cairns and chambered cairns and they are evidence that this location has been inhabited for thousands of years
The name Benderloch means the mountain between two lochs, with Loch Etive to the south and Loch Creran to the north. As the Benderloch Peninsula heads roughly south-west, it meets the Firth of Lorn which lies between the Isle of Mull and the mainland. Lying off the shore of Benderloch is the Isle of Lismore, and slightly further north lies the long Loch Linnhe which leads to Fort William.
The two historical artifacts mentioned are part of a much wider Neolithic landscape that covers the Benderloch / Barcaldine area. The Neolithic remains includes standing stones, Iron Age duns or forts, cairns and chambered cairns and they are evidence that this location has been inhabited for thousands of years
The name Benderloch means the mountain between two lochs, with Loch Etive to the south and Loch Creran to the north. As the Benderloch Peninsula heads roughly south-west, it meets the Firth of Lorn which lies between the Isle of Mull and the mainland. Lying off the shore of Benderloch is the Isle of Lismore, and slightly further north lies the long Loch Linnhe which leads to Fort William.
Roe Deer, Ard Bhatan Woods The beach terminates at Ard Bhatan Woods, where we took a woodland path up to Baravullin where we were to cross over on to the main Benderloch Peninsula. The woodland walk was interesting with massive fungi growing out of the bark of the trees. We came across a small group of roe deer, quietly grazing on the thick grass. It was that kind of day. A day when you were just going easy-osy, and suddenly there was this item in front of you that stimulated the interest.
We were prevented from going forward by a water inlet / burn that runs into Ardmucknish Bay. Our route took us up past the hamlets of Tralee and Baravullin and on up Moss, where were able to turn onto the road that would take us down the peninsula. The OS map shows a ford going over the water at Tralee but we could not find it. Once we reached the top of the water inlet, we could see that even if we could have it through to the banks of the inlet, it was just a wet and marshy fate that awaited us. Quick jump over a fence and were on to the road to take us on to the peninsula proper.
We were prevented from going forward by a water inlet / burn that runs into Ardmucknish Bay. Our route took us up past the hamlets of Tralee and Baravullin and on up Moss, where were able to turn onto the road that would take us down the peninsula. The OS map shows a ford going over the water at Tralee but we could not find it. Once we reached the top of the water inlet, we could see that even if we could have it through to the banks of the inlet, it was just a wet and marshy fate that awaited us. Quick jump over a fence and were on to the road to take us on to the peninsula proper.
Ard Bhatan Woods
Lochnell Castle /House From the hamlet of Moss, we were able to access the long, straight road that heads down the peninsula, and after a couple of turns, heads for the front door of Lochnell Castle / House. When we reached the environs of Dalchruineach, we found that what looks like a track on the OS map, is in fact the driveway that leads up to Lochnell Castle. There was a sign at the bottom clearly saying no entry. Never one to accept no for an answer, I noticed a woman out washing her car in a nearby driveway.
Off I toddle to get the local zeitgeist. Turned out the lady was born in Forfar and her, me and Joanna spend a half hour chatting about the good old days. She advised us that the sign had been put up after the estate was inundated with walkers when hordes descended during the Co-vid lockdowns. People were parking all over the place, blocking driveways, including the main one in to the estate. Cars were getting stuck on the soft grass verge and needing to be pulled out. Following chaos, the estate restricted access. She advised that there would be no problem walking on the estate, as long as we respected the access policies. She kindly provided us with information about a host of local paths, half of which we couldn't take in. After a long chat, we said our goodbyes and tentatively set off up the impressive driveway.
Off I toddle to get the local zeitgeist. Turned out the lady was born in Forfar and her, me and Joanna spend a half hour chatting about the good old days. She advised us that the sign had been put up after the estate was inundated with walkers when hordes descended during the Co-vid lockdowns. People were parking all over the place, blocking driveways, including the main one in to the estate. Cars were getting stuck on the soft grass verge and needing to be pulled out. Following chaos, the estate restricted access. She advised that there would be no problem walking on the estate, as long as we respected the access policies. She kindly provided us with information about a host of local paths, half of which we couldn't take in. After a long chat, we said our goodbyes and tentatively set off up the impressive driveway.
Lochnell Estate
Path to the Tower At the end of the driveway we turned left before reaching the main house, our attempt to respect their privacy. This took us initially past some old stable buildings and then down to a boatyard and pier. The views across the estate, we think to the hills of Lismore and Mull, were beautiful. The day was sharp and crisp but with weak sunshine that provided lovely light over the sea and landscape.
To the south of Lochnell House is a rocky ridge on which is built a watchtower known as Lady Margaret's Tower. The access path is just before you enter the yard. It is a steep climb up through woodland but worth the effort as you have wonderful views of Loch Linnhe, Loch Etive and the island of Mull. It is also a lovely place for a lunch stop, so out came the Jetboil for the coffee and we settled in to just enjoy the views.
To the south of Lochnell House is a rocky ridge on which is built a watchtower known as Lady Margaret's Tower. The access path is just before you enter the yard. It is a steep climb up through woodland but worth the effort as you have wonderful views of Loch Linnhe, Loch Etive and the island of Mull. It is also a lovely place for a lunch stop, so out came the Jetboil for the coffee and we settled in to just enjoy the views.
Happy Chappy after lunch! Lady Margaret's Tower is built on Garbh Ard, a broad translation of which would be 'Rough High'. The completion date of 1754, is etched in to the stone lintel above the door. The tower was built by Duncan Campbell 7th of Lochnell, for either his mother or his wife to enjoy the fantastic views across the estate and out over the Firth of Lorn to Lismore and Mull. The views are amazing, made special by the quality of the light that day. And it made a great lunch stop. The only drawback was the cold wind that seemed to reach every side of the tower.
The Garbh Ard is covered in deciduous woodland, sometimes called Atlantic Woodlands. The forest floor is covered in bracken, or like the nearby temperate rain forests, mosses, lichens, and liverworts. Oak, hazel, and birch trees predominate but there are other species too. What it is not is a conifer forest. There can be a lot of rain here, which can result in high humidity. The air is very clean which produces the ideal environment for the mosses etc., which cover every available surface.
The Garbh Ard is covered in deciduous woodland, sometimes called Atlantic Woodlands. The forest floor is covered in bracken, or like the nearby temperate rain forests, mosses, lichens, and liverworts. Oak, hazel, and birch trees predominate but there are other species too. What it is not is a conifer forest. There can be a lot of rain here, which can result in high humidity. The air is very clean which produces the ideal environment for the mosses etc., which cover every available surface.
Views from Garbh Ard
Consequences of Clean Air After lunch we moved on from the tower, following a faint footpath through the trees. The path ran out at a nearby radio mast and, looking ahead, we could not see a clear way forward. Eventually, we stumbled upon some areas of cleared bracken which we followed until we found another track going to the west, round and down the other side of the hill from where we came up. While disappointed that we could not continue south to the end of the peninsula, we were grateful to find a route out to the western side.
We passed a wee bothy, which we crept past in case we were trespassing, and into a sheep field filled with what we thought were Suffolks (wee round face and looking as if they were wearing an old fashioned wig) and a Hebridean variety with dangerous looking horns. We exited the field through a gate down on to a lovely little cove with initially a shingle beach that further along turned in to a grey sand. There was some interesting bird life including Sandpiper, varieties of Gull and wild geese. The views out to the Firth of Lorn were lovely with a dramatic sky above us, threatening a storm. Good excuse for another wee stop and to ponder the vicissitudes of life.
We passed a wee bothy, which we crept past in case we were trespassing, and into a sheep field filled with what we thought were Suffolks (wee round face and looking as if they were wearing an old fashioned wig) and a Hebridean variety with dangerous looking horns. We exited the field through a gate down on to a lovely little cove with initially a shingle beach that further along turned in to a grey sand. There was some interesting bird life including Sandpiper, varieties of Gull and wild geese. The views out to the Firth of Lorn were lovely with a dramatic sky above us, threatening a storm. Good excuse for another wee stop and to ponder the vicissitudes of life.
Coming off Garbh Ard
A little bit of bliss Prevented from going to the bottom of the Garbh Ard, we resolved to try and go to the bottom of the next peninsula, Fionn Ard. These two peninsulas form a fork within which resides the first shingle beach. It was not an easy route. It involved a bit of clambering on very sharp rocks, climbing to find a middle ground and then having to find our way through a bog to exit onto the headland. The views from here were lovely, hemmed in by the tip of the island of Lismore and a headland on Kerrera. With the day fast moving on, we reluctantly shortened the time we spent here on this beautiful, isolated little cove and headed off to try and forge a path through the western side of the peninsula. I say tried, but after struggling through gullies, climbing cliffs and wading through marshes, we headed back towards the middle of the peninsula for the long walk out. Eventually we came to a flat area where there was a quad bike parked, but nobody around. What there was though, was a rough track (not on the map) that we could follow to the convoluted cove of Salian Ruadh. We were done in by then and the old man needed a wee breather.
West Coast of Benderloch
After our upteenth wee break, we crossed over another headland to land on Sailean Sligeanach, another little, deserted cove where you just wanted to sit all day. From here there were amazing views over the Lynn of Lorn to the shore of the island of Lismore, just about on a line to the settlement of Achnacroish. When you walk the coast of Great Britain, you find out that cows do not just graze in fields, they also like to go for a wee saunter on the beaches to see what they can find to eat. here it was a lovely herd of bright red coloured cattle, with an impressive bull who seemed to think the hay feed was for standing on and not eating. We knew there was a track just to the back of the shore and we found it quick enough and set off on our way back. We passed an isolated B&B on the long way back to the straight road at the castle. Walking the long straights we returned to Benderloch along the road at the back of the shoreline. Back on the cycle path, we followed it home on tired legs, rejuvenated by fish and chips before going back to the van.
Long Way Home - West Benderloch
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